Introduction

Standing on the shore of the Upper Lake, I couldn’t have imagined before and, as I write this, can only remember a shadow of the magnificent town of Glendalough, Ireland. The entire lake is surrounded by gently sloped hills with the east and west sides covered by the forest. My attention wavered between the southern slope, adorned with its spiderweb of rivers and streams feeding the valley, and my equally stunning fiancé standing next to me.

Kate and Ireland share more than just beauty, nothing in my life has opened my eyes to the world more. Every direction offered breathtaking views and shades of green, justifying its nickname, the Emerald Island. Ireland was the best choice for my introduction to Europe. Although this article will tell my story through Ireland, many resources will provide the same information, the purpose of this article is to convince you to go or go back. 

Before we dive into it, let me provide some checklists.

Items to Prebook

• Airfare
• BNB
• Rental Car (do not need if you are just staying in Dublin)
• Attractions
• Fine Dining
  
  

Dublin, Ireland

I’ll spare you the details of the mundane planes, taxis, and walks necessary to reach Dublin. Just keep in mind that it is one of the shortest flights to Europe from the USA. 

What to say about Dublin? Like most metropolitan areas, it has anything that strikes your fancy: the Guinness Storehouse and Temple Bar area for the vacation drinker, Christ Church, Dublin Castle, Trinity College, and St Patrick’s Cathedral for the historical and architectural types, and museums, great food, tours, shops and pubs, all in a walkable distance. For me, three things stuck out about Dublin.

Side Anecdote: Rude Europeans?

I have always heard that Europeans are rude to Americans. But through my travels, I learned differently. While touring Trinity College, I was told by the guards that I was the spitting image of Hugh Jackman in Wolverine while I was wearing a Captain American shirt. On a different trip, in the Vatican, wearing the same shirt, I was told by the guards that I looked like the twin of Gerard Bulter in 300. Needless to say, I now own two of those shirts.

First, the Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is a religious book of illustrations that was made around 800 A.D. It is kept in the Old Library at Trinity College and tours should be pre-booked. The pages of the book are only turned every 8 weeks so, for me, it is a must-see when I return to Dublin. 

Second, the European Culture. Dublin and its people share many similarities with the US. But as you walk around the city and interact with the locals you will notice slight differences that make almost everything exciting and entertaining.

Third, everything seems to be made in Ireland. I first noticed this with the toilets, each one stamped with “made in Ireland”. This is the same for the ketchup packages and almost every other item that I picked up. Might make me a nerd, but this was cool to me.

Side Note: Driving in Ireland
You drive on both the opposite side of the road and on the opposite side of the car. The cars are manual unless you want to pay significantly more for automatic and sometimes the speed limit feels more like a dare. 

The Old Military Road and Sally’s Gap

After picking up our rental car from Dublin Airport, we set off, I was at the helm and Kate was navigating. Every intersection was new and, being on the left side of the road, it felt exotic and adventurous. I continued to see signs that stated “GO MALL” and I took these as destination suggestions, but malls are a weird thing to promote. Turns out this is Gaelic for “slow”. 

Side Note: Gaelic
Learn a little Gaelic to impress the locals.

Our itinerary had us heading for the Rock of Cashel, but Kate had different plans. We zigged-zagged our way through the suburbs of Dublin until we landed on the Old Military Road and our first encounter with the Irish countryside. It was breathtaking. Rolling hills covered in peat, with nocks of forest, and small ponds dotting the horizon. I have never left Dublin by another route, but I can confidently say that the Old Military Road is, without a doubt, the best route.

Pro Tip: From Kate on Museums
Visit the museums in Dublin because they will provide context for when you visit the rest of the island. For example, we learned in the museum that the ancient people of Ireland worshiped the bogs and peat. Therefore, when Kate was standing on the edge of the bog on the Old Military Road, she recalls reflecting on this. And I learned Ireland once had giant deer!

Side Note: Sheep
Sheep are everywhere and yes on the road.

The Old Military Road leads to a magnificent place, where cliff meets lake, Sally’s Gap. 
Later, as I reflected on my trip, I noticed a recurring theme, most of the unique landscapes in Ireland are named.

Pro Tip: Named Places
If you see a named place, especially if it is possessive, and you have time – head there.

Sally’s Gap earns its name. As you look over, from an opposing cliff, you witness the ruggedness of the mountain notch melt into a pristine lake. On the edge of the lake sits, what seems to be, a toy house, as the lake and mountains fade into the mist. A scene fit for a canvas of Thomas Cole.

Glendalough, Ireland

If not gathered by the introduction, Glendalough is my favorite place in Ireland. 
As mentioned before, this was not on our itinerary but Kate really found a gem. As you moved down the Old Military Road and through Sally’s Gap the land started to transition from peat/prairie-like into the almost rainforest-like landscape of the Wicklow Mountains. It was raining and cold but, as if calling, the land was pleading to be hiked. So, we parked and started out on the trail to the upper lake. I personified the land not just to paint a picture, but because, even though I don’t believe in magic, if it exists, it would be here.

Rock of Cashel

The Rock of Cashel is covered in folklore and history. From epic battles between St. Patrick and the Devil to the coronation of ancient Irish Kings. Nestled in the middle of the village of Cashel you can’t miss it. Literally, you see it for miles driving in. Once a castle and then a church, it has it all. 
The Rock of Cashel is grand and magnificent and should be on the list of any castle-seeking tourist, but it holds a special place in my heart being my first.

No guard rope or barriers. Touch whatever you like, or even kiss if you dare (more about putting your mouth on castles later at the Blarney Castle). You can enter the castle but, without any operational stairs, you cannot ascend. The grounds are covered in ancient grave sights and car-size pieces of the castle, so take a stroll.

South Coast

Our first stay, outside of Dublin, at an Airbnb was just east of Dungarvan on the south coast. 
I was not an active participant in picking the Airbnb but Kate came through with a win again.

Pro Tip: Use Airbnb
Use Airbnb and let someone competent choose where you stay. Certainly, paid off by letting Kate choose where to stay.

The Airbnb was set a quarter mile uphill from the Celtic Sea and, of course, with the change of venue came a stark change in landscape. Unlike the forest of Glendalough and the peat-covered hills of the Old Military Road, the southern coast is where rolling farmland meets the ocean. The coast provided the first glimpse of an island nation, with sailboats and fishing vessels lining the sea.

We checked into the Airbnb and headed to the closest town, Dungarvan. It was late, I was tired, so we decided to browse the local grocery store. On our way into the store, we ran into a local. Upon learning about Kate’s Russian heritage, this seemly average man proceeded to discuss Russian literature with Kate for the next 30 minutes. The man and Kate bonded over their shared love of great Russian authors to a point that would make a lesser fiancé jealous. Inside the store was not your run-of-the-mill store trip. Everything was similar but different, and you guessed it “made in Ireland”.

Blarney Castle

The next morning, we enjoyed our breakfast as our eyes flickered between the rounding up of the cows by the farm dog and the dramatic view of the Atlantic Ocean. We jumped in the car and headed for Blarney Castle and our next adventure. 

When it comes to Irish castles, Blarney takes the cake. Upon arrival, you walk through some of the best-kept gardens in Ireland, with different themes and paths, you can spend the day there. As Kate and I were touring the grounds in the pouring rain, we were sporting our 5-dollar red ponchos with pointed hats and capes that flowed to the ground. We are now in many people’s vacation photos, because, according to another tourist, we were mistaken for Cardinals and were the bell-of-the-ball.

As you reach the castle, you’ll take in its true magnitude for the first time, standing at a height of 90 feet. Unlike the Rock of Cashel, you can ascend the Blarney Castle. However, acrophobics beware; once you start the climb, you must go to the top before descending. As you climb, the spiraling staircase becomes increasingly narrow. At the top, you can kiss the Blarney stone by hanging upside down off the castle. 
According to legend, once kissed, the stone will grant the kisser the “gift of gab,” allowing for great powers in communication and negotiations. Needless to say, I did not let Kate anywhere near that stone. I kissed it, but it didn’t seem to help in my debates with her.

Kinsale, Ireland

After Blarney, we headed south to Kinsale. Kinsale is considered one of the food capitals of Ireland, which makes it my favorite city.

Side Anecdote: I want to live in Kinsale!
I currently invest in long- and short-term rental properties as one of my side gigs. 
I constantly half-joke to Kate that my end goal is to own a vacation home in Kinsale.

With being directly on the sea, the town always has fresh seafood on the menu. Kate and I ate lunch at a place called “Fishy Fishy”. Kate had grilled fish with vegetables and I, of course, had fish and chips, “when in Rome”, but I guess in this case “when in Kinsale”.

Side Note: Fancy
The restaurants were fancy, and Kate and I were definitely underdressed.

One last thing about Kinsale, the town is full of color. All of the houses are each painted a different color and it makes a stroll down the main road like walking in a rainbow.

The Black Valley

Another location not on “my” itinerary, and our last stop for the day, the black valley was nothing short of spectacular. According to the locals, it gets its name because it was the last place in Ireland to have electricity. 

As we drove along the highway and toward what I thought was Killarney, Kate said, “Turn right here.” There was no obvious exit from the highway but after searching, and with Kate’s help, I noticed a pencil-thin dirt road heading, almost vertically, down the cliff. I was hesitant but, the hell with it, we were on vacation, so I took the plunge. I did voice my concern with a repetitive parrot-like, “Are you sure?”.

After our descent, we found ourselves in the black valley. How to explain this place? Describing it in words would be like drawing Beethoven’s Fur Elise or singing the Mona Lisa. But in an attempt to communicate my sentiment, I will give it the old college try. The valley is where woes wither wholeheartedly, wildlife wanders whimsically, and waterways wind willfully. Car-sized boulders are disguised as pebbles against the backdrop of grass-covered mountains. As if the only companions to the boulders, sheep stroll smoothly through the shrubs. Down the dirt road, at the bottom of the valley, next to the monoliths and meadows, engulfed in the roar of the rivers, sat our Airbnb.

Gap of Dunloe

The next morning, we toured the black valley and stopped at some boulders and rivers until we eventually reached the Gap of Dunloe. The Gap of Dunloe could be thought of as an extension of the black valley, which sits on the west side of the gap. On the other side is Lough Leane, a lake near Killarney. As we passed over, we shared the road with hikers, cyclists, and horse-drawn carriages. Naturally, the scenery was breathtaking. When we reached the other side, we stopped and marveled at the pass between the mountains.

Inch Beach and Dingle, Ireland

Once back in the vehicle, we proceeded toward Dingle. Along the way, we came across Inch Beach and made another unscheduled stop. 

So, my nerd side came out again. 

The Dingle Peninsula is about 27 miles long extending roughly west into the Atlantic from the main body of Ireland. 

Inch Beach is on another peninsula that is about 3 miles long off the Dingle Peninsula heading south. Therefore, the beach faces west. So, a beach on a peninsula off a peninsula in Ireland, I had to stop. 

Dingle is about three-fourths of the way down the Dingle Peninsula. It feels about as remote as you can get in Ireland. Here, the “made in Ireland” theme is even more prevalent. We stopped by Murphy’s and had local gin-flavored ice cream. We browsed local crystal shops and ate at a local pub. All of this with views of the rolling hills to the north and the bay to the south. 

The charm of these small villages is difficult to communicate but to demonstrate, we display two huge posters in our dining room, one of Kinsale’s and one of Dingle’s main streets.

Connor Pass

Connor Pass is a unique experience. Heading north out of Dingle, the gap leads to the northern coast of the Dingle Peninsula. 

The pass is mainly vertical cliffs on both sides of the road, one going up and the other down. Remember “GO MALL”.

During the entire descent, you are treated to unmatched views of the Atlantic Ocean. Partway down the mountain we stopped in a small parking lot. From here, a short climb will take you to a pristine mountain pond. The pond was almost perfectly circular with steep slopes rising from most of its perimeter.

Galway, Ireland

Galway is a large city on the west coast of Ireland. With fewer tourists than Dublin, this is a great place for a stroll.  

Get out and see the Spanish arches, walk the river, go out to the end of the pier, or browse the local shops and restaurants. As we walked the river on a weekday, we observed people going about their daily business and school children on break all wearing matching uniforms. This was new to me, being from the countryside of the South, I thought school uniforms were cinematic fiction.

Kinnitty

Kinnitty is a small village between Galway and Dublin and might seem insignificant. To be honest, Kate and I stopped here for the night because of its proximity to Dublin. But since we had the afternoon to explore, we did just that. With the direction of our Airbnb host, we walked through a soccer field to an almost indistinguishable path. The trial led through the woods and we found ourselves at a fully remodeled gothic castle.

We were unable to tour Kinnitty Castle because it is currently a hotel but the grounds are open to the public. On the side of the castle is a 9th-century cross with illustrations of Adam and Eve and other biblical stories. In the back of the castle, in the woods, we found old bridges and stone circles. I would recommend Kinnitty to any tourist traveling to Ireland.

Conclusion

Ireland has made its way into my soul, and I feel it has changed me. I never thought a place could affect me so. I am writing this almost a year and a half after my trip and most of it from memory. When you go, don’t follow my path, make your own and claim a unique slice of Ireland that is yours.

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